How to ease the transition to a new email account

Although that kind of move is a lot easier than moving to a new home, it can still be a hassle. Here are some suggestions for smoothing the process.

1. Don't lock yourself into your ISP's domain. For example, if you're moving from, say, SBC to Comcast, you might be tempted to use your new Comcast email address. That's fine, but what happens if you decide to switch to a different ISP again? You'll face the same hassle all over again.

Instead, start using a Web-based email service you can keep forever and access regardless of who supplies your Internet service. That means Gmail, Outlook.com, Yahoo, or a similar provider.

2. Allow for some overlap. Once you've signed up for a Gmail account or whatever, don't cancel your old service right away. If possible, give yourself a month of overlap time so you can field any messages that come to the old account, while still "breaking in" the new one.

3. Spam your friends and family. Okay, maybe "notify" is a better word. Send an email to everyone in your address book informing them of your new address. Ask them to please delete the old address and replace it with the new one.

4. Change the "reply to" address in your old account. During that month of overlap, you'll no doubt continue responding to mail that comes to the old address. Depending on the service and/or mail client you use, you may be able to change the "reply to" address in the settings. Make it your new address; whenever someone replies to a reply, it'll automatically go there.

5. Set up auto-forward. If your old ISP allows it, auto-forward any email from your old address to your new address. That way, you won't have to keep checking the old account, but you will get all messages that arrive there. Another advantage of the whole "overlap" plan.

6. Update online accounts and auto-mailers. This is perhaps the biggest hassle of all, because you're going to have to manually update your email address at Amazon, iTunes, PC World, your bank, and so on. Use that month of overlap time to track messages from your various accounts and automated senders, then be sure to sign in and change your address.

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Learn to build a PC in under two minutes

Building a computer is a great way to get a custom configuration, save some money and have fun. In this how-to video, we'll show you how to build one in less than two minutes.

PC components

• Asus Z87-A motherboard - $140
• Intel Core i5-4430 Haswell 3.0GHz quad-core processor - $190
• G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB DDR3 SDRAM - $80
• Radeon HD 5450 graphics card - $30
• Rosewill wireless card - $10
• Seagate Barracuda 1TB hard drives (x2) - $70 each
• Optical drive - $20
• Antec 550W power supply - $65
• Corsair 400R mid tower - $100
• Asus PB278Q 27" LED monitor with speakers - $550
• Logitech M705 wireless mouse - $40
• Logitech K120 keyboard - $11
• Windows 7 Home Premium - $75

Total: $1,451

First, lay the case on its side and install the motherboard. It may require spacing screws in order to make it level with the cutouts on the back of the case, but either way be sure to secure the motherboard to the case using the supplied screws.

Put the memory into the slots recommended in the motherboard's manual. Make sure the memory clicks into place and is secure.

Add the CPU, which is the most important and most delicate part of the computer. Handle it by its sides and then add the processor to the motherboard and secure it using the clamp.

Add some thermal paste which will help transfer heat from the CPU to the heat sink. Then add the heat sink and fan. Check the motherboard's manual on where to plug the fan into for power.

Add any PCI cards into the corresponding slots. We'll install a wireless card and a graphics card. Those can go into any of the empty slots, just make sure they're accessible from the back of the case.

All of the components will need power so connect the power supply, which typically goes at the bottom of the case. Tighten the screws to hold it in place. Then connect the power supply to the various components.

Then add the hard disk drives and optical drive. Those will usually slide into the bays and either click into place or need to be secured using screws.

Hard drives and optical drives will need both data and power cables. Power cables will come from the power supply and data from the motherboard.

After installing all of the components, connect the monitor, keyboard and mouse and then hit the power button on the case. Keep the cover off the case to monitor the start up.

If it's all installed correctly the BIOS screen should appear. Choose the option to boot from the optical drive. Insert the Windows disc and restart the computer.

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Google Chrome update: How to access apps and recently closed tabs

Today, Google rolled out a Chrome update that not only relocates that useful option, but also simplifies the browser's new-tab interface.

Let's take a look. In the past, when you opened a new tab (either by pressing Ctrl-T or clicking the new-tab button), you'd see one of two pages: a collection of Chrome apps or a bunch of thumbnails for your most-visited sites.

That was kind of a hassle, having to switch between the two. Now, everything is accessible from a single, more unified, page.

Specifically, when you open a new tab, you'll see the Google Search bar. Below that, your most-visited sites, again in thumbnail form.

As for apps, you can access them by clicking in either of two places. The first is the newly added apps shortcut that was added to your bookmarks bar. (If you don't use that bar, obviously you won't see it.) Clicking that shortcut reveals the old apps screen you're familiar with.

However, if you merely want quick access to Google apps (Maps, YouTube, Gmail, etc.), you can click the little apps shortcut in the top-right corner of the new-tab page. That reveals a pop-down menu with nine of the most popular Google apps, with others available by clicking More.

Finally, Chrome's "Recently closed" menu, which used to reside in the bottom-right corner of the new-tab window, has been relocated to the Chrome menu--the little three-line icon at the far right of the address bar.

Click it, then mouse over Recent Tabs for a fly-out menu with your recently closed tabs and tabs from other devices. I'm not sure this is more convenient than the old setup, but it does make for a more unified, less scattered interface--and that I like.

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Understanding tech language: The difference between malware and a virus

The word malware (malicious software) describes any piece of code designed to infect your computer (or mobile device) and make it do things that you don't want it to do, such as mass-mail spam or steal your banking passwords. Trojans, worms, and rootkits are all types of malware.

And so is a virus, in its most technically-correct meaning. A virus is malicious code that spreads by infecting existing files, similar to the way a biological virus spreads by infecting living cells.

Once common, true computer viruses have become quite rare. Criminals have found better ways to spread malicious code.

So if viruses are rare, why do people still talk about them? And why do we still run antivirus programs?

Viruses were the dominant form of malware in the 1980s and 90s, when personal computers were first becoming common. At that time, there was no commonly-used umbrella term such as malware, so people called any malicious program a virus.

And the word has stuck. Although that program you keep running in the background protects you (hopefully) from all forms of malware, it's called antivirus because that type of program has always been called antivirus.

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Why you may want a desktop instead of a laptop

Laptops long ago surpassed desktops in sales, and tablets and smartphones are taking major market share from laptops. The tendency is clearly towards smaller, lighter, and more portable computing. But there are some good reasons to stick with a big box that sits on or below your desk.

First off, there's the price/performance ratio. Whether you're spending $300 or $3,000, you will get a more powerful computer for your money if you're willing to give up portability.

You have more upgrade options with a desktop. Most laptops will let you easily add RAM and swap out the hard drive. But your average desktop can take more RAM than your average laptop. And with a desktop's multiple bays, your drive options open up considerably. For instance, you don't have to choose between an SSD and a hard drive on a laptop; you can have both. Upgrading a CPU or graphics card--reasonably easy tasks on a desktop--are difficult to impossible (usually impossible) on a laptop.

Which brings up the issue of repair. It's easy to open up a desktop PC, check to make sure the cables are secure, clean out the dust, remove a broken part, and replace it with something generic. Laptop repair takes considerable skill, and many parts are specific to that model.

On the other hand, laptops are portable. That's a very good reason to buy one. They also use less electricity.

At first glance, desktops have an ergonomic advantage, thanks to the big screen and full-sized keyboard. But not really. At least when you're home or in the office, you can plug that screen and keyboard into your laptop.

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Your Twitter account has been hacked! Here's what to do about it

The first thing you need to do is try to log onto Twitter. If you can do that, change your password. This will stop the Twitter thief in his or her tracks, and regain you control of your account--if the thief hasn't already changed the password and locked you out.

If you can log onto Twitter in your browser, click the tool icon in the upper-right corner and select Settings. Click Password  on the left pane, then enter your old and new passwords. And please, make your new password is a strong password.

If you can change the password, you have my permission to sigh with relief. But your work isn't over. Keep reading.

If you can't log on or change your password, you're going to have to go through Twitter's customer service and submit a Support request. See the service's own My account has been hacked page for details.

Once you've changed the password--either on your own or with Twitter's help--send out a tweet apologizing to your followers. Explain to them that those tweets weren't yours.

Then delete all of the tweets you didn't send.

Next, block all third-party apps from accessing your account. Click Apps on the Settings page's left panel. Click Revoke access for every application. You can reactivate them later.

As added protection, setup Login verification:

1. Click Mobile on the left pane.
2. Click the add a phone link. Enter your cell number and click Activate phone. Follow the resulting directions (you'll be asked to text something).
3. Look at the phone options and uncheck any that may invade your privacy or become annoying (I unchecked everything).
4. Click Save changes.
5. Click Account on the left panel.
6. Scroll to the bottom and, in the Login verification section, select Send login verification requests to [your phone number]. Let them send you a test message and respond appropriately.

Now about those apps. Go back to the Apps section and click the Undo Revoke Access buttons for each app--or at least the ones you actually use.

Next, change your password for those apps--especially the ones on your tablet and phone. Unfortunately, thanks to login verification, this will be a bit more complicated than it used to be, and requires a PC handy:

1. On your PC, on Twitter's Settings page, return to the Password section and click the Generate button. A numeric code will appear on the screen.
2. On your mobile device, launch your Twitter app and tell it you need to change the password. But instead of entering the new (or old) password, enter the numeric code displayed on your PC.

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