Five steps to ultimate Firefox security

Over the years, many have touted Mozilla’s Firefox as one of the most secure Web browsers. But as with other browsers, the security level offered depends on the settings. Some security features need to be manually enabled. Those turned on by default should still be double-checked.

Follow these five steps to lock down Firefox. Start with the essentials in the browser’s own settings, then choose some useful add-ons. Finally, keep track of your plug-ins so you can patch the inevitable security holes.

Enable a master password

Like other browsers, Firefox by default allows anyone who accesses your computer to log in to sites where you’ve saved the password. And as with Google Chrome, a list of the saved usernames and passwords can be viewed via the Options menu of Firefox.

ERIC GEIER

By default, nothing prevents others from viewing all your saved login info in Firefox.

Fortunately, Firefox offers a master password feature that encrypts and password-protects the saved password list. When enabled, you must enter the master password the first time you use a saved password, once per browser session. Additionally, even though you enter the master password the first time, you must always enter it before you can view saved passwords via the Options menu. This is a great feature to help prevent casual snooping of your passwords. It even prevents most third-party utilities from recovering them.

ERIC GEIER

Creating a master password prevents others from using or viewing your saved login info.

To enable the master password feature, open the Firefox menu, select Options,select the Security tab, and then check theUse a master password option.

Use a strong password for syncing

Like Google Chrome, Firefox has a syncing feature to synchronize your bookmarks, passwords, and other browser data to Firefox browsers running on other computers and devices. Fortunately, Firefox encrypts all synced data, not just your saved passwords (as Google Chrome does). Additionally, Firefox has more security than what Chrome offers by default when you’re setting up a new computer or device to sync. In Firefox, you must log in with your Firefox Sync password. Then you must either enter a random passcode from the new device into one that you've already set up, or take the recovery key from a device you’ve already set up and input that key into the new device.

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Syncing conveniently syncs your saved login and other browser data across multiple computers.

So you don’t have much to worry about with Firefox syncing—as long as you use a strong password, one with upper- and lowercase letters, numbers, and special characters. If someone knows or cracks the password, and has access to a device you’ve already set up with syncing, they can then set up other devices with syncing and access your passwords and other browser data.

To enable or change sync settings, open the Firefox menu, select Options, and select the Sync tab.

Verify that security options are enabled

Like other popular browsers, Firefox includes some basic security and privacy settings. Though most are enabled by default, you should ensure they haven’t been disabled.

ERIC GEIER

Make sure the first three security options are selected to protect against malware and phishing attacks.

Start by opening the Firefox menu and selecting Options. In the Options window, select the Security tab. Ensure that the first option, Warn me when sites try to install add-ons, is enabled to help prevent sites from automatically installing add-ons, as some can be dangerous. Then ensure that the next two options, Block reported attack sites and Block reported web forgeries, are also checked to help enable protection against malware and phishing.

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Check the first privacy option to help prevent websites from tracking your online activity.

Next, select the Privacy tab. And if you want more privacy online, select the first option, Tell websites I do not want to be tracked, which isn’t enabled by default. Although it can’t prevent all tracking, it will reduce tracking by those sites that support this type of option.

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Ensure that the first content option here is enabled to block pop-ups.

Now, select the Content tab. To prevent pop-up windows that can be annoying and even contain phishing ads, ensure that the first option is enabled: Block pop-up windows.

Lastly, select the Advanced tab, select theUpdate subtab, and ensure thatAutomatically install updates is selected.

Use add-ons for more protection

Consider installing these security-related add-ons for extra protection:

NoScript helps you control which sites can use JavaScript, Silverlight, Flash, and other embedded content, as they can be used maliciously to infect your computer or for phishing attempts.

Adblock Plus blocks banners, pop-ups, and video advertisements on websites to reduce clutter and the resulting annoyance; they can even reduce accidentally stumbling upon adware, malware, and phishing attacks.

Web of Trust (WOT) shows the user ratings of sites and blocks dangerous sites—such as those with malware—to increase safe surfing, shopping, and searching on the Web.

HTTPS Finder automatically detects and enforces HTTPS/SSL-encrypted connections when available—great in helping to reduce the chances of an eavesdropper on a Wi-Fi network from capturing your login details.

Xpnd.it! short URL expander allows you to hover over shortened links to see the real URL and other basic information about the site so you know where it leads before clicking.

Check and update plug-ins

Cyber criminals regularly use vulnerabilities in popular browser plug-ins (like Java and Adobe products) to infect and invade computers. Most plug-ins regularly release updates to patch security holes. Many plug-ins are set by default to update automatically or at least to notify you of them. However, it’s a good idea to check periodically for updates. Consider using the Mozilla plug-in checker or third-party sites like Qualys BrowserCheck for updates for other browsers.

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How to upgrade your external hard drive to USB 3.0

Ready for an unconventional upgrade? How about this: You can turn an old, pokey external hard drive into a blazingly fast one with about 10 minutes of your time and $15 of your money.

See, most modern computers have at least one USB 3.0 port. You can plug an older, USB 2.0 drive into one, but you won't get the faster throughput afforded by the newer technology.

Thankfully, you don't need to get a new drive just to enjoy speedier file transfers; you just need a new drive enclosure.

You can buy one for around $15, give or take $5, and from there it's a fairly simply matter to transplant your old drive. Just unscrew the old enclosure, remove whatever screws are holding the drive in place, then separate the drive. Now install it in the new enclosure using the provided instructions (if you even need them; it's a pretty self-explanatory procedure).

There are only a couple important considerations here. First, make sure you choose an enclosure that matches the physical size of your current drive. For example, if it's a number of years old, it might be a 3.5-inch drive (in which case you should check to make sure it has a SATA interface, otherwise you might have trouble finding a USB 3.0 enclosure).

Or you could have a 2.5-inch drive. If so, double-check the height: most are 9.5mm, but there are 7mm and 12.5mm drives out there as well. Be sure to choose an enclosure that can accommodate your size.

Second, decide if a plastic enclosure will do the job or if you should spend a few extra dollars for an aluminum one. If you travel a lot and need a drive that can take a pounding, aluminum might be the better bet.

Newegg is one vendor that offers a wide selection of external drive enclosures. Using the column on the left, you can narrow down the options based on size and other features.

This is a surprisingly easy and effective upgrade that not many people think to try. If you have a USB 2.0 drive and a USB 3.0 port, it's well worth the time and expense.
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How to create a Windows 8 shutdown tile

1. It starts, ironically, in Desktop mode, which you can reach by clicking/tapping the Desktop tile or pressing Win-D (that's the Windows key and the letter D).

2. Right-click in any open spot on the desktop, then choose New, Shortcut.

3. We're going to make a Shutdown shortcut, so in the location field, type shutdown /p and then click Next.

4. Choose a different name for the shortcut if you want, or leave it as "shutdown," then clickFinish.

5. Right-click the new shortcut and choose Pin to Start.

Presto! You're done. The next time you return to the Start screen (aka Metro), you should see a Shutdown tile. One click or tap and your machine should immediately shut down.

You can also use this method to create a reboot tile. Just substitute the following text in step 3: shutdown /r /t 0. (That's a zero at the end, and you shouldn't include the period after it.)

Note that using the reboot tile will immediately reboot Windows, with no second-chance warning.

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Why some Web sites are much slower than others

You can't set a clock by your Internet download speed. A great many factors make one page faster than another. And a great many other factors can make the same page fast one day (or hour) and slow the next.

Most of these variables are completely out of your control. But it's still worthwhile to understand them.

First, there's the page itself. Pictures take more time to download than text, and large pictures take more time than small ones.

A well-written page--and I'm talking about code, not text--will take less time to load than a poorly-written one.

And then there's the server. That Web page exists on some computer--a server--somewhere on the Internet. How fast is that server? And how many other pages is it sending out to other people at the same time? Your computer slows down when you're running too many programs. So does a server.

What's more, the Web page probably didn't exist on the server before you requested it. Most pages on the Web are created by a database query. The query speed is another potential bottleneck, especially if you have a slow or overloaded server.

Then the page has to get from that server to you. To do that, it goes through several additional servers, and the cables connecting them. Any one of these could be overloaded or in poor condition.

What can you do about it? Not much. If most pages download quickly, improving your own Internet connection is unlikely to help the slow ones.

But here's one thing you can do. If a page seems to be taking forever, cancel it and try again. And if that fails, try again in an hour.
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How to undo accidental browser zoom

For example, somehow, while using his laptop's touchpad, he'd made everything in his browser bigger. Consequently, he had to scroll pages left and right, not just up and down.

Welcome to the Curse of the Multitouch Touchpad. Most laptop owners know that dragging a finger across the touchpad moves the cursor. On some systems, dragging two fingers up and down enables scrolling. But there's another "gesture" that's easy to perform by accident, and the results often leave users scratching their heads.

It's the pinch-zoom gesture, which works just like on a smartphone or tablet: you pinch two fingers together to decrease the zoom (i.e. zoom out), or pinch them away from each other to increase the zoom (i.e. zoom in).

This can be useful—unless you're not aware the feature exists and accidentally graze two fingers across your touchpad the "wrong" way. Suddenly everything's bigger or smaller than you want it, and you have no idea why—or how to undo it.

Short answer: Press Ctrl-Minus (or hyphen) to decrease the zoom, or Ctrl-Plus to increase it.

If you want to permanently disable touchpad-powered zooming so this kind of thing doesn't happen again, venture into Windows' Mouse properties and look for a Pinch-Zoom or 2-Finger Gestures setting, then adjust them accordingly.

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Passwords: You're doing it wrong. Here's how to make them uncrackable.

For years now I've harangued relatives about their shoddy password practices. Either they use easily-hacked passwords or forget the passwords they've created—sometimes both.

If you won't take it from me, beloved family, consider this Password Day (yes, apparentlyit's a thing) statement from McAfee's Robert Siciliano: "74% of Internet users use the same password across multiple websites, so if a hacker gets your password, they now have access to all your accounts. Reusing passwords for email, banking, and social media accounts can lead to identity theft and financial loss."

What's the fix? It's easier than you might think. For starters, head to Intel's Password Grader to see just how easily cracked your current password is. (The site promises not to retain any information, though still recommends that you not use your actual password—so maybe just use somethings similar.)

From there you can scroll down to see a simple step-by-step process for making your "hackable" password "uncrackable." (There's a longer and more informative version of this infographic on Sicilian's blog—and it doesn't require you to use the Password Grader if you'd prefer not to.)

The key takeaway here is to avoid the usual mix of letters, numbers, and punctuation you're often advised to use, and instead opt for an easier-to-remember passphrase.

So, for example, if your PC World password is something like "PCW0rldD4ve," you'd actually be better off with "I Love Reading PC World!" Sounds crazy, but as McAfee and Intel note, it's not about complexity, it's about length.

And you could adapt a similar passphrase to every other site you visit: "I Love Reading Facebook!", for example, and so on. Now you've got both diversity and simplicity in your corner. The only catch is that some sites won't allow you to use spaces, and others may limit password length.

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File extensions control which application can open a file

Windows uses a file's extension--the part of the file name after the period--to identify what program should open it. When you double-click, say, a .docx file, Windows checks to see what application is associated with that extension (probably a word processor) and opens the file in that program.

You can change these associations yourself, and you can associate multiple programs with a single extension. In fact, there's a good chance Windows has already done that for you.

To see what I'm talking about, right-click a file and select Open with. You'll get a submenu listing programs that Windows associates with the extension. From there, you can simply select the program you want to run.

You can also change that extension's default program (the one that launches when you double-click a file). In Windows XP, Vista, and 7, right-click the file and select Open with>Choose default program. In the resulting dialog box, select a program, check Always use the selected program to open this kind of file, then OK.

But what if your desired program isn't listed? From that same dialog box, click the Browsebutton, then find and select the .exe file for the desired program. Consider whether you want Always use the selected program to open this kind file checked or unchecked before clicking OK.

The process is similar but different in Windows 8. The dialog box that comes up when you select Open with>Choose default program lists the current default first, with the words "Keep using" before the name. Make sure that Use this app for all .ext filesis checked before you click the desired program.

If your desired program isn't listed, clickMore options for additional programs that Windows thinks you might want. If you still don't see the right program, click Look for another app on the PC, at the very bottom.

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Three quick ways to ease your transition to Windows 8

Indeed, for anyone brand new to Windows 8, anyone who's already familiar with an earlier version of Windows, that tile-based interface can be startling, confusing, and ultimately very frustrating.

Can you learn it? Sure. Should you have to? No. With a few simple steps, you can make your new Windows 8 PC much more familiar, both in look and operation.

1. Forget that Metro exists

Windows 8 may boot to its fancy new digs, but you've got work to do. For now, I recommend switching to Desktop mode (which might as well be called "Windows 7 mode"), where it's much easier to install and access your favorite software.

You can return to Metro anytime you want to learn your way around, mess with apps, and so on. But during this transitional period, stick with Desktop.

To get there, just click the Desktop tile which should be in the lower-left corner of your tile collection), or press Win-D (that's the Windows key and letter D).

2. Install a Start button

Once you get to the Desktop, you'll notice there's no Start button. Rumor has it Microsoft's forthcoming Windows 8 update will give you the option of restoring it, but until then, third-party software to the rescue.

I'm partial to Win8 StartButton, a free utility that gives you a choice of Start-button themes (including all the old favorites). That's one huge hurdle overcome.

3. Boot straight to Desktop

In keeping with that whole forget-Metro-exists philosophy, I recommend booting straight to Desktop mode. That saves you the hassle of having to land in Metro, then click the Desktop tile.

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Keep your laptop battery healthy: Use it sparingly

What wears down a battery? Charging and discharging. Obviously, you can't avoid either of those acts entirely (although if you could, you wouldn't have to worry about wearing out your battery). The trick, of course, is to do as little charging and discharging as possible. And one way to avoid charging and discharging is to remove the battery when you don't need it.

Ideally, you would remove the battery (with the laptop shut down, of course) before plugging in the AC adapter and working at your desk. Then, before you take your PC on the road, you would shut it down, insert the battery, and let it charge for a few hours.

In reality, that's not always practical. Shutting down and rebooting your PC every time you go from portable to deskbound quickly becomes a nuisance. Worse, you have to remember to recharge before leaving home.

A more practical solution would be to shut down the laptop and remove the battery when you expect it will stay plugged in for a week or more. And don't intentionally discharge the battery before removing it. After all, the whole point is to charge and recharge as little as possible.

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